mid term

I am coming to the end of the first semester of school here in Hong Kong. I have learned a lot about the culture and to sum it up, I would call it a mosaic. There are definite elements of traditional Chinese culture but there are numerous, colorful hints of Japanese, Korean, and Western (mainly British). There are so many things that are still foreign to me and I struggle with them everyday. However, I feel like I have become acclimated to a pretty large extent. I can buy food at the market outside of my house, navigate the entire country by MRT, bus, and ferry, and I have even set up online banking for my account here!

I am eternally grateful that I decided to take the job in Hong Kong. I feel that a job in Korea or mainland China would not have been quite as much fun. The amount of English spoken here, the selection of food, and the general friendliness of the population combine to create an extremely positive environment. Plus, I still have access to Facebook, Gmail, and NPR.

Elliot has asked me (twice now) if I see myself as Chinese or American. The first time, I said that I was an America and I would always see myself as an American. The second time he asked me I had to take a pause and contemplate the idea. I am and always will be an American. However, I have found myself staring at westerners, wondering why Hong Kongers are staring at me, and harboring a bit of animosity towards tourists. Interesting. Please excuse me while I go have some yum cha (dim sum) and walk down the street in an agonizingly slow, meandering fashion.

Burrrr.

In danger of sounding like a politician, I officially rescind my condemnation of ube. I do not apologize, however for badmouthing ube flavored ice cream, candy, and/or snack bars. Ube, as a root vegetable, is quite delicious and the purpley potpourri of flavors is, indeed, very nice.

In other news, there has been a cold weather warning issued in Hong Kong. Quick, get out your parka and puffa jackets, it’s below 60 degrees! For the past two nights the temperature has been hovering around 58 degrees and during the day it has been a frigid 65 degrees. I’ve been wearing sweaters and scarves to work and compared to my co-workers, I am practically naked. They are all wearing pea coats and wooly sweaters. I don’t know how they are not passing out from overheating. Additionally, the heat is on at public transportation facilities. The HEAT.

“Take care Emma. Do not get too cold. Where is your coat?!”

--The teachers at my school

No Voice? Go Home!

So I've lost my voice. It is terrible. Everyone thinks I'm horribly diseased. No, I don't have bird flu, please believe me! Ugh, considering I teach kids how to speak English by speaking English, my job has suddenly become almost impossible. Alas, this too shall pass.

This weekend was cool, had a nice potluck Thanksgiving celebration. I think that it was was one of the best meals that I have had in Hong Kong! Kuddos to the pumpkin pie, mashed potatoes, butternut squash, and cookie makers! Those were difficult items to recreate in Hong Kong.....especially since no one has an oven! The turkey was purchased already roasted.

On Sunday I went on an adventure. After the customary Sunday brunch at Taco Truck (ahh Mexican Food!), I was playing Scategories with my apartment mate, Becci, and my friend, Peter, when we decided to go on an adventure. We hopped on a ferry to Kowloon City and explored an older section of the city. We were headed vaguely in the direction of the Walled City Garden, but we never made it. We happened to stumble upon the Cattle Depot which is an artists' village. After cautiously approaching, we were waved in by the door man. Even though the compound had a weird, creepy feeling to it and the architecture reminded Becci and Peter of Auschwitz, we checked out the premises and saw some cool sculptures, plants, and a cat. Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take any photos. After a bit of wandering, we happened on a small film festival exhibit and watched some short Taiwanese films. They were weird but cool.

Later, after we returned to the apartment, Becci and I googled the village. Turns out that it isn't actually open to the public and we were lucky to have a chance to see it! Also, the weird, creepy feeling stemmed from the fact that the area was where all of the cow slaughterings went on in the early twentieth century.

Yeah for random adventures!

Steep Incline

Few! This has been a hectic week! I had an excellent weekend to start it off: I attended the Hong Kong finals of the Battle of the Bands and I went to Tai Po to enjoy a lovely afternoon in a country park with the Chatteris organization.

But before I say anything else....here are some snap shots of Halloween!




The Battle of the Bands was super awesome! It was really nice to see a live show and it only cost me about $15 American. Plus, I got a free light up pen from the sponsor, what more can you ask for? There were nine bands that played all sorts of music from borderline hardcore to gut-wrenching indie. Most of the music was in English so that was great. There first band that we saw was called Paranoid; I had to ask if they were dudes, drag was their image.

On Sunday, I joined the rest of the Chatteris employees on a trip to Tai Po. I knew that there would be food there so I didn’t bother eating lunch. However, I didn’t know that there was going to be a two hour trip involved. Needless to say I was very hungry when I arrived and the man selling ice cream by the bus stop is lucky that I didn’t buy his complete stash. After I got settled and had some real lunch, the activities began. We could choose from row boating, kite flying, a scenic walk, or a scenic bike ride. I chose to go row boating. A lot of my friends also went on bike rides…I was too busy eating more food! The row boating was really cool and, of course, someone started a splash war with the inevitable conclusion of soggy clothes. Not a problem until the sun set and we ate dinner in an air-conditioned restaurant. Brrrr.

Check out how far Tai Po is from North Point...this is why I missed a skype date (sorry Mom!)



See it's practically in China! @_@ Traffic makes for a long journey!


School life has really been kicked into high gear. I was totally wrong about things calming down after exams. Next week marks the beginning of the English Speech Festival in Hong Kong. I’m training fifteen students and I have to meet with each of them ten times! Craziness. I’m always running around trying to find them. In fact, the whole English department is going insane. So. Many. Poems! They have to learn how to pronounce, memorize, and deliver a poem in English. Oh yeah, and it also has to have feeling. That means that I have to explain the meaning behind a lot of poems, I don’t know how the students know what is going on because the meaning of some of the poems is over my head.

On top of that, I’m planning an open day event, a Thanksgiving party, and a Christmas party. For the open day the school has to look extra special because primary school students and their parents will be coming to view the school and decide if they want to attend. I will be the MC for the event once again. The students will also be performing High School Musical for the visitors followed by “English Language Games.” Still figuring that out. The Thanksgiving party will be a mash-up of hand turkeys, pies, scavenger hunts, and games. Christmas is TBD.


PS There are some sick waterfall hikes in the New Territories. Check it out.

stress and release

If you thought that mid-terms and finals were bad, think again. You haven’t taken the Hong Kong bi-annual secondary exam. It is brutal. They have written tests in all subjects coupled with oral and listening exams in English and Putonghua (school is taught in Cantonese so Mandarin/Putonghua is considered a separate language). Exams began Wednesday this week just as the weather has turned gorgeous. It has been a crisp 65 degrees Fahrenheit everyday this week with clear blue skies to match. Torturous. Starting Wednesday, the students have had exams beginning at 8:30 and running to around 11. Then, they go home to cram some more. This will go on until Tuesday of next week. It may seem like a light load but the students look like they have died. When I see them after their exams they shuffle listlessly past me with vacant expressions. They are convinced that they have failed and probably 65% of them have. I know for sure that the lower level classes of Form 5 (equitable to 10th graders) all failed one exam because some students were caught talking. They will either be held back or asked to leave the school depending on their discipline record. I am so glad that I had a different learning environment. Rag on the American school system all you want, at least you get to enjoy yourself and relax from time to time. I am sure that my outlook on the eastern schooling philosophy will improve in a few weeks after the stresses of exams have faded into distant memory, but right now I just want to hug all of my students and tell them that they are bright, awesome, and strong people! They need to relax and be kids. Some of them already have grey hairs, no joke!

I think that some of the exam stress has morphed into aggression because the day before exams were slated to begin, I caught some older boys torturing the younger boys by stealing their shoes and pencil cases and throwing them out of the classroom windows. Other such incidents have been occurring all over the school…..they have all gone mad!

Whew….despite what the above ramblings may have led you to believe, I have been having a wonderful October! Yesterday I carved pumpkins with the students at Polytechnic University in Hong Hom. I don’t know if I have mentioned it before but I work there part-time on Thursdays as a part of their Big Mouth Corner program which is a venue for students to practice their English with native speakers. English is super important to the university students because that is the language of instruction for all of their classes! Ai ya! Anywho, the pumpkin carving really made me miss home and it brought back a lot of memories of carving pumpkins on the back deck. The students got really into it and carved pirates, the Joker from Batman, impressions of their friends, and all other manner of things. They made some awesome looking squash. It was really cool because a lot of the students were from mainland China and this was their first experience with Halloween altogether. They think it is really funny that westerners and Hong Kongers are so into this ‘strange holiday.’

I was surprised that Halloween is such a big holiday here even though I shouldn’t be because of the British influence. But really, it’s huge! There are whole street markets devoted to selling costumes and accoutrements. Becci and I went to one in Central on Wednesday. She is going as Minnie Mouse and I’m going as a pirate. The dreads really complete the look! Pictures soon.

Walk Much?

It has been a while since I have updated this blog. I have been working and playing extremely hard. I feel like I more strapped for time than at any other point in my life previously. But, I really like living in Hong Kong. Can you tell?

Every day I learn more about this unique island’s culture. Most of the things that I learn are strange and one thing that I cannot get over is the walking. Yes, the walking. I don’t know if it is me that is walking fast or Hong Kongers that are walking slowly but it is an issue. I feel like I am constantly going around people. For a city that is all about speed and convenience, they are lacking in the power-walking department. This would not be a real issue, except that people also do not walk in straight lines. I think that this issue has more to do with the amount of people on the sidewalk rather than an inner ear disorder, but still, grrrrr. The final walking issue which I will subject your brain to is the plight of shoulder bashing. This occurs on a daily basis. It is not the custom here to move out of the way when you see someone coming on the opposite path. Normally, I would be accustomed to moving partly out of the way and having my efforts mirrored by the approaching person. Not here. I have the shoulder aches to prove it.

Word Vomit

Going camping on the beach is not a fitting description for what took place this past weekend. Seriously, I could write a book. I can’t even properly describe it to Elliot when I talk to him on the phone. It. Was. Amazing. Here’s a brief run-down of events:

Woke up at 10 am on Friday (no school because of National Day)
Packed/bought supplies
Met the group at the MTR
Began the first leg of the journey to Choi Hung
Becci fainted; some one on the train hit the emergency stop button
Becci drank a Coke and felt better
We went and got lunch
Took a bus to Pak Au
Hiked for about two hours up then down a mountain (thank goodness there was an excellent path)
Saw amazing views and spiders
Wrote new lyrics to the all-time favorite “Down By the Bay”
Arrived at the beach
Set up camp
Went in the ocean
Body surfed
Got stung by a jellyfish
It got dark at 7
Played with glow sticks
Made a fire
Had a beach party
Slept
Woke up at 5am for sunrise
Spent the day on the beach
Made bracelets
Got sun burned
Collected more firewood
Ate dinner
Built a fire
Had a beach party
Went to sleep
Woke up at sunrise, went back to sleep because it was cloudy
Woke up later and went swimming
Booked a boat back to Wong Shek
Packed up camp
Had the scariest experience of my life (there was no dock and we had to board the boat in the surf)
Had a scary/great/weird boat ride
Did not end up in mainland China
Got off of the boat
Took a bus then the MTR back to North Point
Ordered a Pizza
Moved our mattresses into the living room
Watched television until it was time for bed.

And the whole time I laughed hysterically, bonded with friends, created way too many inside jokes, got incredibly sandy, and really missed people at home.

Check

Great news! I found the indie scene! I was very worried about music life in Hong Kong as most of my students only seem to like pop music. Thankfully, my misconceptions were shattered this past Saturday evening. After a lovely trip to Victoria Peak with Becci, I was at a loss for what to do the rest of the night. Becci and I didn’t want to go to Wan Chai (a popular night-life area) because it is too western and every night spent there is exactly like the last. They always play the same club songs and there are almost no local people….plus the clubs are packed like a sardine tin. So instead of making the standard night out plans Becci and I decided to try something different…ghasp! We were wandering around an area called SoHo when the people we were with spotted a flyer that said INDIE PARTY on it. How fortuitous! Into a taxi we went and we were off to an excellent night. There wasn’t a cover charge, the DJ played exellent music, there were local people, there was room to dance, and we even got invited to another indie night at a different venue. PS taxis are wonderful here and cost about $1 US for a ten minute trip when split between four people. :D

Moon cake

Do you know what the best part of the Mid-Autumn festival is? There is no work today, it's a national holiday! I know I know, you're jealous. Don't worry, labor day doesn't exist here so we're even. Tonight I plan on going to see the dragon parade in Victoria Park which is supposed to be excellent. However, I don't know how much more moon cake I can eat. Moon cake is the hallmark of the Festival and I'm not quite sure if I like it. There are several different flavors, each one stranger (yet palatable) than the last. The cakes themselves all have goose egg yokes in the middle, a white/yellow casing on the outside, and are filled with different flavored fillings of varying tastes. It is also a tradition to give them to friends and co-workers so all week they have magically been appearing on my desk. At least I know that I am loved.

Also, since the last post Becci and I went to the Temple of the 10,000 Buddhas in Sha Tin and it was wonderful! However, we chose one of the hottest days which was a bad decision as there were about 700 steps to reach the temple. The place was also a bit creepy as the monk who founded the place is preserved there. The story goes that he told his followers that if he was to be buried on the monastery grounds in a crouching position, then he would not decompose. Sure enough when they dug him up nine months later, he was perfectly intact. So, naturally they covered him in gold leaf and put him on display for all people willing to climb 700 steps to see.

...Is your uniform perfect?

I know that I have written about uniforms before but man are they tough. At morning assembly today I saw two boys getting told that they must get haircuts. Apparently their side burns were too long (at some schools they would have just cut it for them.) The girls aren't safe either. No curls for them. The discipline teacher actually combs through their hair and checks for them everyday. And the prefects, yes like in Harry Potter, they run around with these check sheets and make sure that everyone has on the right color socks, that their shirts are tucked in, that their belts are tight, etc. Anyone who deviates gets their name written down. After so many times you might get ...A BLUE PAPER AHHHHHHHHHHHH! Still don't know what that means. I do know that blue is bad and red is good, beyond that I am clueless. I assume that there is some form of punishment associated with them but I don't know what it is, I tried to ask a student and they wouldn't tell me.

The kids are amazing. I cannot believe how well they speak English. America should really direct more money and resources towards foreign language (and really all other subjects)instruction. Of course, Hong Kong does not run on a free and public system. Almost all students pay tuition and that is even if the students have the privilage of attending the school of their choice. If you don't pass the test or you aren't the child of some sort of movie star, you are not getting in. The really good schools do have scholarship programs, but those are reserved for the geniouses. And I mean the geniouises.

Well it's that time again...past my bed time.

Really, it's Friday?!?

To my astonishment, I once again find myself on the fringe of Friday. Where did the week go? The advantage of a busy work schedule: weekends magically appear. Seriously though, I feel like I am in a time vortex here. Must mean that I am having fun, right? The downside is that I haven't gotten a chance to do much touristy stuff yet. I really want to go back to Lantau and see the big Buddha. And I want to go hiking in the new territories. And I want to eat at a bazillion restaurants. All in good time.

Tomorrow I will conduct the first weekly English radio hour broadcast at the secondary school where I teach. I am really excited even though it will be mostly cheesy pop music that will be played. I selected some songs that students told me were their favorite and I have made up a DJ script for the students to use. It seems as though there isn't much of a rock or indie scene in HK although there will be a Gorillas concert here in December (Becci and I want to go!). Mostly the kids listen to J-pop, K-pop, and anything in the American top 40. I could be wrong though and there may be secret Vampire Weekend or Aqua Lung fans hiding in the shadows.

I have also noticed that there is a culture-wide love of anything cute in Hong Kong. Even the teachers use Hello Kitty pens and have cartoon puppy dogs with hearts as their computer backgrounds (male and female). The secondary students, even the older ones, are also very immature and socially awkward (of course there are exceptions). I would say that they are about three years behind socially and two years ahead mentally.

Ugh, it's past my bedtime! Enjoy the picture of my street above!!!

Warning

What ever you do in life (cure cancer, end world hunger, travel to Mars...) avoid trying ube or anything ube-flavored at all costs. If you see this innocent looking purple melon-fruit in Asia or in any Chinatown world wide treat it like an illegal addictive drug: don't do it. That's right. Because even if you are thinking of trying it don't. I thought I would be brave and cool but really I just ended up looking like a jerk. Ube is not one of those foods that you realize you do not like but, for the sake of appearance, you finish what is on your plate. No. It's not that simple: ube is the food that you spit right out into your napkin and try to scrape off of your tongue. This juvenile behavior is then promptly followed by a vigorous tooth brushing.

Now Becci and I are going to enjoy some Portuguese-style bakery treats from one of the three bakeries right out side of the building...which one will it be?!?

Settled (Almost)

Today we got the internet. Oh yeah. Tomorrow the fridge will be picked up. This is good. Monday will mark the beginning of my first full week of school. Nice.

Last week at school was very interesting. It was a lot different from working in an American high school. The day begins with twenty five minutes of morning announcements. During this time, students must stand silently in straight lines while teachers inspect their uniforms and deliver announcements. Any students that are late must stand to the side of the group. There are always late students. Always. The classes are also a little bigger as each class has forty students. The work load in incredible. Each student is expected to play an instrument, speak Putonghua, Cantonese, and English, play a sport, and participate in clubs. Additionally, they have at least five hours of homework to complete every day once they leave school and the preparation for standardized exams in very rigorous.

Enough of the 'bad.' What I really like about the Hong Kong system is that the students get almost a full hour for lunch as well as a fifteen and five minute break mid-morning and mid-afternoon. Additionally, the schools are very well designed. Almost all of the schools in Hong Kong are laid out centered around 1-3 basket ball courts with the classrooms encircling them. It sort of looks like a motel. The students have to go outside to go from class to class.

Right now things are a bit tough because every one of the almost two thousand students and staff know my name and I barely know any of the staff! And to make things more confusing, all announcements and paperwork are in Cantonese. It's a struggle, but luckily the teachers and students are happy to help me and the only people that have extremely limited English are the janitors and some of the office staff.

I have started to pick up a few key Cantonese phrases (very few!) but I can say important things like good morning, thank you, and dim sum. I really like the phrase for dim sum. In Cantonese it is 'yum cha' which literally translates to 'drink tea.' I learned (from Betty Lai and others) that it is called 'drink tea' because that is what you do the whole meal! Makes sense, right? I have also learned that there is no actual equivalent to 'I'm sorry' in Cantonese and most native speakers have just adopted the English phrase into their vocabularies.

So, you might be wondering what my favorite thing about Hong Kong is so far. In general, I would have to say that my favorite thing is the food (there's so much variety!) followed closely by the contrasting landscape. Since Hong Kong is a mountainous island, only the rim of the island is truly developed so when you look at a skyscraper there is a green mountain in the back ground. It's wild.

Getting Settled

So I have survived my flight, adjusted to the heat (somewhat), found an apartment, and made some friends. Things are going well despite the money shortage. Luckily, I will be getting paid soon and all will be well. My room mate (Becci) and I have managed to find a cute if tiny apartment located in North Point on Hong Kong Island. We saw it and we were in love. Of course this love came after viewing terrible and terribly expensive apartments. Still, it is a great place. I love the location, the food, the apartment, and the general atmosphere. There are several people that we know living close by and it is nice to have that security network. There are even people living in our building that we know.

So far, the biggest cultural shock that I have had is adjusting to Britishisms. Trash is 'rubbish,' food is not flavorful it is 'flavorsome,' my name is not Emma it is 'Emmar,' elevators are 'lifts,' trucks are 'lorries,' and the list goes on and on. The miscommunication has been numerous, humorous, and utterly frustrating. Although it is better now, the first week or so was filled with many 'huhs? 'can you repeat thats?' and 'that's not what I meant at alls!' Now the situation has progressed to a much more terrifying stage where I am saying flat and Becci is saying apartment. I must say that my impression of a British accent is much improved.